Where's the Disconnect?

During my time here, I had the opportunity to spend a weekend in the home of one of the friends we made at the university. This was by far one of the most enriching experiences that I had in my stay—staying with a family and experiencing some of their daily life taught me and showed me more of Morocco than any of the tourist or educational sites that I visited. My perception of Moroccan hospitality was taken to an entirely new level: we were delayed in arriving at their home the first night, and did not get there until about 11:00. When we arrived, they still managed to have a hot tajine waiting for us to enjoy. They took us to the medina in Fez, to the shopping mall, and to their family farm out towards Ifrane. The mother in the family gave each of the girls (there were a few of us staying there) necklaces to bring home. Not only were they tangibly hospitable, but also everything about their demeanor toward us was welcoming and kind.

Spending a weekend with this family made me wish that every American who travels to Morocco could have such an experience. No matter how beautiful the architecture and landscape is all over the country, it is the people that truly make Morocco what it is in a way that no mosque or oasis could.

After looking at these stereotypes within the Moroccan destination image, it is easy to wonder why, after all this time, there are still so many discrepancies between the reality and the preconceptions of Morocco. Tourists get caught in a cycle that keeps them from having a realistic view of Morocco before they come. Media presents Morocco to the rest of the world in a stylized, exaggerated picture that becomes the destination image that they expect. In the host country, workers in the travel industry realize that in order to make money they need to give tourists what they are looking for, so they exaggerate and cater to the aspects of Moroccan culture that “sell” and present these to tourists. Tourists then observe these things and return home with photos and souvenirs that are based on a marketed image. My research on the effects of tourism brought me to Theobald, who states “Tourism can provide an impetus for the preservation of ancient cultures, but too often the local way of life degenerates into a commercially organized effigy of its former self. The traditional dances and the skilled craftwork give way to cheap imitations to satisfy the needs of the visitor and to obtain money with the least possible effort.” (88)

According to Karaberg, Furst, and Hagen, there is a growing paradox in that it is becoming progressively easier to travel, while at the same time opportunities to experience a culture authentically are becoming scarcer. “Instead of giving the traveler a way to absorb the memes of the destination culture, this degenerate tourism damages the destination memes and imposes its own, while keeping the traveler in a constructed island of his own culture.” Many of the most popular tourist destinations make sure to cater to the comforts and preferences of Western travelers, even if this means adjusting the traditional aspects of the culture.

One would think that, as more and more people travel and see the actuality of the country, destination images would fade to some degree and tourists could arrive with a realistic impression of what they will experience, they could enjoy the culture and see it for what it is, and depictions of the culture to the rest of the world could be accurate. This is an oversimplification, definitely, but many potential travelers are aiming to experience more “authentic travel” in their destinations. Rather than only visiting the popular tourist spots, they are venturing beyond in order to get a more “true” experience of the host culture.

At first glance this seems like an entirely good idea, however there are some concerns with the development of authentic travel. Theobald cautions against authentic tourism’s hasty attempt to penetrate the “back region” of a destination—for some communities, having a back region that is private and away from the clicking cameras of tourists is important and protected. It would be best if a balance could be struck between the two: giving travelers a chance to experience Moroccan culture without invading the privacy that many try to retain.

My mind goes back to my first days here, when I wondered whether my experience in the Rabat medina or driving up to Ifrane was more authentic Morocco. The truth is, both of these are genuine parts of Moroccan culture. A Berber tour guide whose job it is to lead tourists through the desert on a camel is living just as “authentic” a Moroccan experience as the man who works as a leather tanner in Fez or as a businessman in Casablanca. It is the people, not the images that make up the true Moroccan culture—tourism is one of the top industries in the economy, and thus it is an integral part of Moroccan society. Although the “tourist culture” may cater in some ways to its foreign visitors, it should be noted that this is still an authentic part of Moroccan culture.

And so, as a traveler to Morocco, hopefully you have learned a few things about the differences between the expectations and realities in Moroccan culture! The most important things to keep in mind are that you should not go into Morocco with a postcard image in your mind and expect everything to be the way you pictured. There will be stark contrasts also striking similarities—not everything will feel like the backdrop of a movie, but there is something picturesque to be found in nearly every corner of this country, if you have the eyes to see it.

Deserts and Camels

My head rattles against the window of the 4x4 as we bounce across the desert through the darkness. I wonder for the umpteenth time how it is that our driver could know where he is going—from what I can tell, there aren’t really any landmarks to indicate any sort of relative location. We are not even on a paved road anymore, just driving at high speeds across the desert. It’s only a little after 5 in the morning, and I definitely did not get enough sleep earlier. I start to doze off again when I am started awake by the 4x4 screeching to a halt. I open my eyes and am shocked to see, in the glow of the headlights, a few dozen camels sitting in front of us.

This could probably be called the culmination of our study abroad experience in Morocco—after several weeks of classes, project work and cultural study, we are finally getting our camel ride through the Sahara. We should be at the sand dunes early enough that we could watch the sun come up. For now, there are just thousands of stars shining more clearly than I have ever seen them. The air is cold, and I am surprised at how much warmer it feels when one of our Berber guides ties my headscarf properly as a turban covering my hair and face. As soon as he finishes, another beckons me over closer to the camels and helps me onto its back. With a grunt, the camel stands up (a scary experience, as I am quite sure I will fall off!) and we begin our journey to the sand dunes.

A short while later, I am taking as many pictures as I can as I watch the sunrise on the horizon of what looks like endless sand dunes. It is a very clear morning and the scene is incredibly picturesque. It is, in some regards, easy for me to see why this is one of the most popular tourist attractions for Morocco, as it is definitely one of my favorite experiences that I have had during my time here. However, it also feels very catered: our professor has informed us already that the dress of our guides is from an entirely different region of the Sahara, but that it is used because it is recognizable for tourists, and at the end of our camel ride he lays out a rug for me to sit on so that he can display various souvenirs and fossils, hoping I will purchase one. It is a strange paradox to have a natural phenomenon be so staged at the same time. Nevertheless, I find myself feeling like this is one of the most “Moroccan” experiences that I’ve had—even though I know this is more based on my preconceptions than on the reality that I have seen in Morocco.

The image of camels and deserts is a very prevalent cultural meme for the Morocco, maybe the most prominent. (This has been briefly addressed in the entry about the geographic destination image that Morocco has, however there is still more to say about the image itself.) Why would the desert hold such significance? What is the intrigue with dunes and camels, making this image win out over some of Morocco’s other beautiful landscapes?

The Sahara has always been important for Morocco, both for Moroccan residents and for foreign destination image. For many Western travelers, it is a blank image that they can imagine themselves in. It is mysterious, exotic, and adventurous. They picture riding a camel into the horizon or camping out under thousands of stars. Many Morocco travel guidebooks feature a panoramic view of the sand dunes on the cover, often featuring a camel or two and maybe a man whose face is covered by a turban. Ambiguity and mystery are concepts that are held as ideals in the destination image of the Sahara; any human element (aside from maybe a Berber to lead one’s camel through the desert) would be seen as a disruption. However, there is a human component to everything that a typical tourist would experience in the Sahara. There have also been adjustments and exaggerations made in the desert to attract tourists, such as the common appearance of “Blue Tuaregs” as tour guides and shop owners, when tuaregs, in reality, only originate farther east in North Africa.

The Sahara has held significance in Morocco not only for foreigners, but for locals as well. Berbers, the original Moroccan demographic that populated the desert, have played a crucial role in Moroccan cultural development over the years. Berbers originally populated Morocco in nomadic tribes until the coming of Arabs during the expansion of the Islamic Empire. The language and culture of the Arabs became more and more influential as Islam became more and more integral to the identity of Morocco. Berber-tribal frameworks persisted in Morocco through the nineteenth century, when a growing sense of Arab nationalism pushed for Berber culture to give way for Arab. Berber language and culture are only now beginning to be re-integrated into the curriculum and everyday life of Moroccans. There are still a few desert nomads who live in Morocco, and the Sahara still holds strategic and symbolic importance. Algeria and Morocco have been in conflict over who should have control over Western Sahara, a Spanish colony now annexed.

One of my professors in the States is Moroccan, and a student asked him once (in all sincerity) whether or not camels were his primary mode of transport in Morocco. Within the desert destination image is a stereotype of Moroccans as nomads who live in tents and ride on camels wherever they go, and it seems that this stereotype has not changed even with worldwide development. It’s as though Morocco (and other countries in the Arab World, for that matter) are expected to remain frozen in time before modernization and technology. Although in some regions there certainly are nomads, this generalization is completely inaccurate. This typecast fulfills a character for the dramatic backdrop of the desert, much more romantic than a Moroccan who lives in a house and drives a car. There is a degree of effacing that happens with people in the desert context, to keep in line with the ambiguity and mystery that the destination image of the Sahara holds.

The Desert has played an important role for Morocco, both in the destination image and the developing culture. As the country continues to build into its own identity as a nation—having only just a few decades ago gained its independence, hopefully it can grow in and beyond the desert to create an image that encompasses all of the beautiful landscape and culture that Morocco has to offer. 

A Whole New World: Getting Past the Aladdin Image

I press myself flatter against the wall as another donkey laden with cartons of soda marches through the narrow streets, knocking aside whatever is in its path. It barely brushes against me before moving on up the hill. I look around at the crowded medina and think to myself how this might be easier if we were broken up into smaller groups on our tour of Fez today. There are about twenty in our group, but another bundle of tourists has just made its way past us. Many Moroccans are milling by, looking somewhat irritated by our presence.

I look around at the nearby shops—one of them is overflowing with the pointed leather slippers often worn by local men. Another one is a small convenience store, and I consider buying a water bottle before we move on with the tour. I will probably have time, as the professor who is showing us around the medina is still in a heated discussion with a local tour guide. Apparently, he is not supposed to be leading us to this part of the medina. Their shouts echo over the hum of conversation and the calls of shopkeepers for us to buy their wares. I look behind me at yet another shop, this one a small bakery café. The pastries in the display case look appetizing until I look closer and see the dozens upon dozens of flies crawling all over them.

Finally the tour guide tires of berating our professor and moves on, and we begin to move in another direction. There are more shops, selling scarves and spices. I run my hand along the smooth surface of the mosaicked walls, admiring the fact that so much of Morocco’s beauty is in the details like an intricate tiled wall in a poorly lit alley.

It crosses my mind that this is the material of postcards and movies. The opening scene of Aladdin comes to mind, when he is running from the guards after stealing a loaf of bread. I wonder if, played out in real life, his escapade would have happened in a medina like this one…

The Aladdin setting is one of the most common destination images for Morocco:

The haunting sound of a muezzin calling the Muslim faithful to prayer rings out from a minaret over the busy bazaar below. The market is full of stalls selling carpets and lanterns, spices and produce. There may be a snake charmer or two between the shops as well, for good measure. People walk about on foot, with one or two navigating camels through the crowded streets. All the women are wearing veils or headscarves; only the eyes are visible on most. The air is rich with the smell of saffron and cumin. All the doorways are shaped like keyholes. The best adjective to describe the setting is “exotic.” This image is what comes to mind when many people imagine Morocco, but how did this image come about?

Media has developed this destination image for hundreds of years, first in travel narratives sent home, and then in pictures postcards, and movies. Destination images became codified in the 1920s with the French occupation of Morocco. It was during this time that a number of artists and writers moved to Morocco, drawn to the land for a variety of reasons. One of these was Jacques Majorelle, a French poster artist who lived in Marrakech from the 1920’s to the early 1960’s. He travelled all over Morocco painting depictions of Kasbahs, souks, and Moroccan women.

Source:http://www.artcurial.com/fr/actualite/cp/2010/_media/1835_
tableaux-orientalistes/tableaux-orientalistes-_Page_01_Image_0001.jpg

Majorelle’s paintings are still printed on postcards, which are sold in souvenir shops on every corner in Moroccan tourist destinations, especially Marrakech. It is fascinating to see that the Morocco that the images Jacques Majorelle observed and depicted decades ago are the same ones that are being circulated all over the world on postcards today. The exoticism and romance that was marketed to the French under the protectorate, which used Morocco as a vacation destination, has been sustained and are still marketed today, particularly to the Western world.

These sustained destination images are the most successful when marketing to tourists, so Moroccans have kept and exaggerated them. Many souvenir shops offer genie lamps among other merchandise. Marrakech was engineered under the French protectorate as an exotic destination, used as a haven for French elite during the winter months. Visiting there today, you can still see the remains of this development—Marrakech still seems to flaunt its romantic exoticism, quite nearly to the point of exaggeration. While there, we walked through a square in the medina full of snake charmers and dancing monkeys. The monkeys were just waiting to jump on the shoulders of passing visitors for a photo opportunity (and a small fee). I couldn’t even count the number of riads (traditional Moroccan homes turned bed & breakfast) named “Aladdin.”

How does this destination image play out in reality today? Theobald said that a destination often has two regions within a location, one that is offered to the tourist’s eye and another that is kept separate. “Local culture and customs may be exploited to satisfy the visitor… Here the issue of staged authenticity is an important one where the host destination is able to convince tourists that festivals and activities in the “front region” of the destination (e.g., public areas such as hotel lobbies or restaurants are authentic and thus they protect the real “back region,” i.e., residents’ homes and areas where life continues).” The back regions of Moroccan cities have been able to develop and progress, still keeping a “front region” in the medina which remains marketable for travellers and also practical for locals.

It is interesting to see how Moroccan cities have developed over time. There is usually an old section of the city, the medina, which is walled in and separate from the rest of the city. It is here that you find the narrow streets lined with little shops, the keyhole-shaped doorways, and buildings nearly stacked upon each other. There are no cars allowed here, so everyone travels either on foot, on donkey, or the occasional motorbike. The whole atmosphere of a medina is timeless—it is in these parts of the city that, especially for someone in Morocco for the first time, you feel as though you’ve stepped into the “Whole New World” that Aladdin and Jasmine would fly over on their magic carpet. Outside of the medina, however, the rest of the city has developed with time, full of cars and shopping malls and McDonald’s. Tourists don’t often come to this part of the city, unless it is the location of their hotel. Life in these parts of the city feels much less exotic, and at times it is even easy to forget you are in a foreign country.

This often is one of the biggest surprises for travelers to an “exotic” country. They arrive expecting to be in an environment that is entirely foreign, and are astounded by the fact that daily life for locals, although there are sure to be some drastic differences, are also in a lot of ways similar to life in their home country. Increasing globalization has spread technology (as well as some of the cultural aspects of the most advanced nations, such as clothing and music) and to some degree has lessened the differences between cultures. “Modernism” has replaced many of the deep-rooted customs of traditional culture, especially in urban areas. It is impressive to see the preservation of the medinas in so many Moroccan cities, where certain aspects of life have not changed for decades.

Travelling in Morocco, do not expect every town to look like a movie set. Just like American towns have advanced and grown over the years, Moroccan ones have done the same. You may find yourself having moments of being in “a whole new world,” but even these may be against a contrasting backdrop. Morocco is full of contradictions: two young women walking together on the beach, one wearing hijab and another in a bikini, or McArabias (pita filled with kefta, a traditional Moroccan ground meat) instead of Big Macs at McDonald’s. Appreciating the contrasts of what so perfectly fits and perfectly contradicts the destination image of Morocco is key to appreciating its beauty.

Geography: Where is Morocco on the Map?

A week before I left the US for Morocco, I was sitting in the travel clinic waiting for the doctor to go over final instructions for how not to die of dysentery during my trip. My mom was there with me, and we were looking at a world map that they had hanging on the wall.

Source: http://www.welt-atlas.de/datenbank/karten/karte-4-634.gif

“Where is Morocco again?” my mom asked. I pointed to the country on the western tip of North Africa, immediately touching Spain.

“Oh! That’s not so far as I thought,” she said brightly. “I thought that it was somewhere over here.” She indicated somewhere in the Persian Gulf.

Since this conversation, I have talked with several other international students studying abroad in Morocco, who have let me know that this is not an uncommon misconception. Many people, when asked where Morocco is, would think that it was in the Middle East somewhere.

There is more to this confusion than just simple lack of geographical knowledge, however. Geography shapes what we expect of a destination. A few locations in Morocco have been apprehended and marketed to the rest of the world, leaving a picture that is incomplete.

Contrary to common notion, Arab World and Middle East are not synonymous. I learned this distinction in a class that I took on Arab culture in the spring. An Arab country is one where Arabic is the spoken language. So, there are several countries in the Middle East that are not in the Arab World (such as Pakistan and Afghanistan), and there are several countries in the Arab World that are not in the Middle East. Morocco is one of these. Oftentimes, however, people assume that because it is an Arabic-speaking country and because the dominant religion is Islam, (another misconception about what defines whether or not a country is in the Arab World) some people assume that Morocco is in the Middle East.

Gibbins gives a description of Morocco as a destination “rich in cultural diversity and postcolonial contradictions. Constitutionally an Islamic Arabic country, its geographical location coupled with strong and abiding religious, cultural and social influences of the indigenous population have placed Morocco on a distinct historical and cultural path.” The location of Morocco has opened it to glean from surrounding cultures. Morocco has indeed been a part of the Arab World for hundreds of years, impacted by the same cultural and religious phenomena that have developed in the Middle East. Morocco is a predominately Muslim country, and religion is an integral part of everyday life. The minaret of a mosque rises above the rooftops of every town, schedules are run off of prayer times, and restrictions such as dietary rules (no alcohol or pork) are enforced in many restaurants. France has also left a strong impact, as it occupied Morocco until 1956. Indeed, the first thing that I ate in Morocco was a chocolate croissant (the best that I’ve had!) at a small café where we stopped in downtown Rabat. French is commonly spoken as a second language among Moroccans of all ages. Particularly in the north, Morocco has been impacted by Spain, which is immediately north across the Strait of Gibraltar. I have only had the chance to visit a few cities in northern Morocco, however the Spanish influence can clearly be seen in this region of the country. There are even two cities, Ceuta and Melilla, which are on the African continent on the Moroccan borders but are actually part of Spain. Morocco is also influenced by its greater African identity. One example of this would be Gnawa music, a compilation of Islamic spiritual songs and rhythms with origins in sub-Saharan Africa. Most African influence can be seen in the southern regions of the country. Being an African country so close to Europe, with connections to the Middle East gives Morocco a blend of influences unlike any other.

Morocco has been presented with a homogeneous geographical image, perceived to be a country comprised almost entirely of desert. (There will be more on this later). Expectations are almost entirely made up of sand dunes and palm trees. However, Morocco is divided up into several regions, which vary in topography, climate, and culture. There are deserts, but also mountains, beaches, and fertile plains.

The varying regions of Morocco are affected by their geography, so that clear subcultural distinctions can be seen. Each geographical region has also found a niche in which it can be a marketable destination. Although Marrakech has its Kasbahs and Erfoud has sand dunes… Chefchaouan, a stunning city tucked amidst the Rif Mountains, is well known for its beautiful hiking. The people here are often relaxed and outdoorsy, and walking through the lush green forests is nothing reminiscent of a desert! The coast of Morocco is dotted with lovely seaside towns like Asilah and Essouaria, with many fishermen and vacationers populating the beaches. Ifrane was designed by the French to be a resort town. It is one of the only places in Morocco where it snows, and is well known as a ski destination, and during the winter months may seem more like the Alps than North Africa. Ifrane also has much more of a resort- or college-town atmosphere. The people of Ifrane are used to seeing international students walking through the marche, where in some of the more rural areas where the presence of a white person draws a lot of attention. The atmosphere in each of these very different locations is entirely unique from the others, yet they are each an integral part of Morocco. There are parts of Moroccan culture which seem to be consistent wherever you go: hospitality, conviction, and compassion are values that I have seen in every Moroccan I meet! However, the people in Chefchaouan are much different than those in Erfoud, just as walking through the blue-painted medina is different than through the desert. But the desert is no more of an authentic experience of Morocco than the ski slopes or the beaches. Yet despite all of the differences, the geography from one or two regions in Morocco has been extracted and juxtaposed onto the rest of the country within the destination image.

Based on the geography of Morocco’s destination image, this should be a place which is nearly always hot, dry, and sunny. However, this is most definitely not the case! We had a couple of weeks where it rained every single day. It was with shock and horror that I realized that not all of Africa is a constant warm climate. During our preparation for studying here, we were informed that sometimes at night it would get chilly and bringing a sweatshirt was advised. I took the advice with a grain of salt, thinking “But I’m going to Africa! But I’m going to the DESERT! How cold can it be?” I packed a few long sleeved shirts and pairs of jeans, and one sweatshirt. I still look back regretfully as I think of the moment when I cast aside my fleece jacket, which I had decided against at the last minute because it would barely fit in my already overflowing suitcase. However, all the summery shirts and sundresses that I brought were no match for the nights where the temperature was in the 40s, or when we had rain for several days straight. We have been more fortunate than the students from my university who were here last year, when it snowed before they returned to the States in mid-October. Believe it or not, Africa can be cold!

Most travelers do not arrive in Morocco expecting to encounter snow, lush forests, or fertile agricultural plains. It can come as a surprise to see the diverse geography that Morocco has. Developing a broader destination image could increase the success of tourism for all regions of the country, not just the ones that have been stereotyped! So if you are looking to travel to Morocco, don’t come only looking for oases and deserts, or you might miss the beautiful mountains.